Just outside of Kathmandu is a small town called Baktaphur. During the day it feels a lot like a small version of Kathmandu. However, I spent two nights there, and in the evenings and mornings (when the tourists are largely absent) it has a whole different feel. In the evenings I sat out in the main square to watch dusk envelope the city and ended up playing games with the local school children (none of whom asked me for money). Mornings were quiet, and it was easy to believe that mornings in Baktaphur have not changed in several hundred years.